... mountain escapes ...
Madeira, Portugal
some of the best hikes on Madeira
The Island of Eternal Spring
A compact island, just 35 miles wide and 13 miles long with a population of about 500,000, half of whom being squeezed along the narrow ravines and ridges of its capital Funchal. With two million annual tourists, this outcrop in the middle of the Atlantic might not spring to mind when thinking about ‘Hidden Europe’. But leave the tourist facilities on the south coast behind and head up into the mountains or towards the wild north coast, and visitors will encounter a lush, impressively diverse, and often simply stunning landscape of high peaks, steep valleys, and ragged cliffs. This is a stunningly beautiful island, and no longer the domain of the geriatric brigade seeking milder climes in the depth of a north European winter. Visitors now include plenty of families, but also Millennials, and Gen Zs, nature lovers and sunseekers from all parts of Europe and North America, who are attracted by a benign climate, and a lush volcanic landscape that is absolutely unique in Europe.
Encumeada Pass
On occasion, I was struck by some similarities with the Azores Islands. The architectural style of churches and public buildings is similar which is a consequence of the fact that both archipelagos were settled by the Portuguese at roughly the same time, i.e. in the 15th century. Also like the Azores, Madeira was uninhabited and had no native population. Soon after the first settlements were erected, sugar plantations began their operations, often using a small number of slaves from the nearby Canaries. But once sugar was found to be more lucratively produced in the Caribbean, that crop was swiftly replaced by vines. And that’s when the British Empire started to have an impact on the island with British traders arriving in Madeira in the 18th century. But unlike the Azores, whaling never represented a mainstay of the local economy and was introduced as late as 1941. And once more in contrast with the whalers on Pico Island, Madeirans used motorised boats to circle a pod, which was quicker, more efficient, but also crueller. Portugal’s EU accession in 1986 thankfully stopped all whaling activity.
along the north coast
Trip Essentials
How to get there:
There is no longer a public ferry to mainland Portugal, some 800 km away. Neither is there a link to the Canaries which lie 500 km to the south. So, apart from getting on a cargo ship, flying is your only choice and unfortunately, Funchal airport has gained a bit of a reputation as having a rather tricky landing strip on which to touch down. Only experienced pilots are allowed to attempt the often hair-raising experience, which seems appropriate given the short runway, which is squeezed right up on to a hillside. On my visit, the pilot needed a second attempt before wibble-wobbling the plane to safety. The passengers though seemed strangely calm, and most likely have witnessed it all before. Should the winds be just too strong, flights regularly get diverted to nearby Porto Santo before calmer conditions allow for a safer landing. Brace yourself.
How to get around:
It is just about possible to explore the island by using public transport. There are reliable bus services for instance to the north coast towns of Porto Moniz, Sao Jorge, Faial or Porto da Cruz, while the southern resorts of Porto de Camara de Lobos or Calheta also enjoy frequent connections from Funchal. Several adventure and trekking outfits too operate out of Funchal and can whisk you into the mountains on day excursions. But be aware that there are different bus operators who all use different stops. A visit to the Tourist Information Centre is therefore highly advisable.
But most independent travellers rely on their own set of wheels. So did I, as private transport is essential to access certain trail heads and visit more remote parts in particular on the island’s westernmost reaches. As always, I booked my rental through Zest. For some, driving on the island can be rather headache-inducing. Up and down steep ravines, navigating tight hair pin corners, watching oncoming traffic along often narrow roads. It is not everyone’s cup of tea. But large sections of Madeira are now connected by a collection of dead-straight tunnels, which can seem weird, as you are mostly driving in the dark. These sections can be found on the south coast around Funchal, and also on some stretches on the eastern and northern coasts in particular in the vicinity of larger settlements. I had a blast though. Driving over mountain passes, cruising along coastal roads with wonderful, far-reaching vistas, plodding through dense forests and small villages: for me this was an essential part of what makes a visit to Madeira such an enjoyable experience.
Where to stay:
As with many islands in the Atlantic, meteorological patterns can vary dramatically even within the confines of such a compact place as Madeira. As you will soon find out, the weather in the northern part can be rather unpredictable. Clouds and mist are never far away, and there are days when the sun will only on occasion poke through a thick layer of clouds. Great for a verdant vegetation, not so much for tourism, which is why there is only a little smattering of hotels on the north coast, and the area feels quiet and remote, even isolated in places. But when the sun does come out, so do the day trippers, with the black sand beach at Seixal, or the rock pools at Porto Moniz getting hopelessly crowded. The south on the other hand has almost guaranteed sunshine. But that blessing is also a curse, with one hotel complex after another strung along the shoreline just to the west of the capital Funchal, while the resort towns of Ribeira Brava, Ponta do Sol, Camara de Lobos and Calheta can get packed to the rafters with beach goers. If the current trajectory of rising visitor numbers continues, the island authorities will soon have to face the prospect of unattractive over-tourism. Thus, choosing a location really depends on the type of tourism that you would like to pursue. Given that this post is part of a ‘Hidden Europe’ theme, my advice of course is to stay in the more remote parts of the island and to cross your fingers for fine weather. The area around Sao Vicente and Ponta Delgada is still relatively quiet and underdeveloped, as is the western outpost of Paul do Mar. And if you do long for the rays to hit your skin, sunnier parts of the island are only ever a 30 minute car journey away.
traditional cottage in Santana
Hiking on Madeira:
There are over 3,000 km of hiking trails covering Madeira’s extraordinary landscape. The regional government has numbered nearly 30 of them by using the prefix PR (for Pequenas Rotas – small routes) This clever move helped to transform the island into a year-round magnet for hikers. The ‘adventure’ and ‘experience’ tour operators of course have also latched on to this convenient setup and are offering guided excursions and on many occasions, you will most likely not be alone when exploring the wilds of Madeira. The island is compact and by car can be circumnavigated in under 3 hours. It is also densely populated, especially on the south coast around Funchal. In order to evade the worst excesses of overcrowding, hikers therefore are well advised to start early (before the tour operators have picked up their clients after breakfast) or wait until the rush hour has faded away (which is usually at around 4.00 pm). Other things to consider are the rather stark contrast in weather patterns. While the south can be basking in glorious sunshine, the exposed hills and mountains of the north coast are often shrouded in thick clouds. Access to trailheads can also be a challenge, as nearly all hikes are not accessible by public transport, necessitating a rental car or expensive taxis. So, get up early (or start late in the day), organise your own mode of transport, and the magnificent beauty of this jewel of an island will reveal itself in its full glory.
Ponta de Sao Lourenco
Hike #1: Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourenco (PR8)
7 ½ km out and back
2 ½ hours
Altitude variation 270 m
And this is the most popular hike of them all. On the far eastern tip of the island within easy striking distance of the resort hotels of Funchal. Cars line up on both sides of the ER 109 access road, and at mid-day you might find a parking sport that is miles away from the start of the trail, where an official park ranger will collect 3 EUR per hiker (electronic payments accepted). You can avoid this unpleasant civilisation shock by doing the trail as late in the day as possible (try 4 hours before sunset; the park ranger will have departed by then as well). You will be rewarded with a spectacular setting; a moonscape of bizarre rock formations and sparse vegetation, steep cliffs, crashing waves and an excellent view of the airport’s flightpath, which allows you to spot the odd plane trying its best to get down in one piece.
Ponta de Sao Lourenco
Hike #2: Levada do Rei (PR18)
12 ½ km out and back
3 hours
completely level
Over the centuries, a highly impressive network of man-made irrigation channels totalling over 2,000 km has developed across the island. These so-called Levadas are designed to bring water from the precipitation-prone north to the more arid and sunnier agricultural fields in the south. For maintenance purposes, paths were carved out alongside the Levadas which nowadays provides a happy playground for hikers. And the Levada do Rei is indeed fit for a King and an excellent introduction to this network. You will be walking through a lush, verdant and varied flora that marks out Madeira from any other place elsewhere in Europe. The trail start in the hills just above the north coast town of Sao Jorge and resembles a stroll through your local botanical garden with the odd vista down into the valley thrown in for good measure. The hike follows a Levada pretty much all the way and therefore is devoid of any steep drops or ascents. There is even the excitement of squeezing yourself underneath a waterfall.
Levada do Rei
Hike #3: Levada das 25 Fontes (PR6)
11 km out and back
3 hours
Altitude change: 300 m
Crowd alert: The hike of the ‘25 springs’ has gained a massive presence on social media platforms. Little danger of cloud coverage up here, along the rooftop of the Central Mountain range, and on more gloomy days, these highlands become the remedy for sun-seekers, many of whom flock to the parking lot at Rabacal for an easy access to the waterfalls. Better then to drive up the ER 105 which snakes along the ridge and to turn off on to the ER 211 (direction Calheta). After 2 km, you will come across a big shelter with impressively grand tile images next to it. This is the start of the 800 m long Tunel do Cavalo (‘Horse Rider’s tunnel)’: pitch-black dark, damp and ghostly, but you’ll survive (by using the torch function on your smartphone).
Levada das 25 Fontes
Once on the other side, just follow the excellent signposting to the 25 Fontes. At the end of the trail you will marvel at the steep vertical cliffs from which a series of waterfalls cascade down into a rock pool. On your way back to the tunnel you will come across a signposted fork that leads uphill for 1.1 km to a viewpoint overlooking the gentle Risco waterfall that plunges down in the the valley for 50 m. No crowds here, strangely.
Risco Waterfall
Hike #4: Pico Ruivo
(short section of the PR1)
6.6 km
2 hours out and back
Altitude change 350 m
At 1,862 m, the Pico Ruivo is the tallest mountain on Madeira. Handily, a steep road takes you all the way up to 1,600 m with a parking lot right next to the Achado do Teixeira refuge. This is the only mountain hut on the island that serves food and drinks to non-overnighting customers, so if you just want to come up to enjoy the spectacular views without engaging in any physical activities, then this might be an excellent lunch spot. The climb itself is short and steep along well-trodden steps which lead to a platform offering 360 degree views. But once more, you might be in the presence of many fellow hikers, so try and come here at sunrise, or two hours before sunset. The crowds will be remarkable thinner with a magical twilight being a just reward.
Pico Ruivo
Hike #5: Pico Areeiro to Pico Ruivo (PR1)
14 km out and back
5 hours
Altitude change 800 m
This is the king of Madeira’s mountain hikes, established over 50 years ago, and linking the island’s three biggest peak, starting with Areeiro (1,818 m) and continuing with Pico das Torres (1,853 m) and on to Ruivo (1,862 m). During my visit, this high altitude hike was unfortunately inaccessible, since the path was damaged by forest fires in 2024. A year later, the scarred landscape was still deemed to be too dangerous for hikers. Once re-opened, the trail will surely claim its rightful place as the top hike on the island. I drove up to the parking lot at Areeiro and just about managed to spot the challenging terrain. The sun was beating down; temperatures had reached 30 degrees. Maybe it was just good fortune that a gate barred access to the trail.
forest fire damage at Pico Ruivo
Hike #6: The Coastal Path at Sao Jorge
5 ½ km
2 hours round trip
350 m up and 350 m down
No PR numeration here, and no tourists either. This short hike somehow is not on the radar of many day trippers or indeed adventure operators. Maybe it’s because of the wonky bridges that one must pass and might just pose too much of an insurance risk. The trail starts at the Igreja Matriz church in the centre of the village of Sao Jorge, located on the north coast. Walk the road in an uphill direction, past a little chapel on your left and down Rua Sao Pedro towards the cemetery. Keep going downhill until you reach the viewing platform at Cabo Aereo (with an excellent restaurant; see ‘Places to Eat’). Then it’s a steep and signposted trail down to the sea and to the partially abandoned village of Calhau (with a very nice public swimming pool). Follow the trail west (with the aforementioned wonky bridges) all the way to a now dis-used pier. The hike offers one of the few opportunities on Madeira where you can actually walk along a coastal path.
coastal path near Sao Jorge
Hike #7: Pico Grande (parts of the PR12)
9.4 km
4 hours out and back
Altitude change 420 m
At 1,654 m, the Pico Grande does not even make Madeira’s top ten of highest peaks, yet the hike offers a convenient way to quickly get into the high mountain range. Make your way to the viewpoint of Boca da Corrida, a very steep (!) drive from the outskirts of Funchal at an elevation of 1,200 m. You will already encounter fabulous views across to Ruivo and the observatory at Aeieiro. Follow Trail PR 12 - the Caminho Real da Encumeada or Donkey Pass - which snakes above the steep Valley of the Nuns (Curral das Freiras). After 90 minutes you will come across a metal sign, where you have to leave the PR12 and head towards the mountain top aided by the occasional use of robes and cables drilled into the rockface. This turned out to be my favourite hike during my stay on the island. It provided a real sense of isolation and solitude within a setting that truly felt alpine.
Pico Grande
Places to visit: Funchal
The island’s only sizeable settlement is a sprawling, but also a highly agreeable, affluent town with impressive, grand civic buildings (most notably the Town Hall on Praca do Municipio), well-kept gardens and public spaces, bustling streets, cute side alleys and inviting squares. No major tourist attractions though, despite the persistent effort to market the cable car up to the Botanical Gardens, but nonetheless a very pleasant place to while away a couple of days.
Funchal
Funchal is host to a number of lovely, yet low-key museums. For some. the CR7 museum located on the harbour front and devoted to footballer and Madeira’s most famous son Cristiano Ronaldo does not necessarily fall into this bracket. The statue outside the museum unfortunately does not really resemble the man, and while Ronaldo did not come to prominence for being an introvert, neither does his statue. Fans of his tend to rub the hands and feet of the monument. Critics though seem to focus on his somewhat oversized reproductive organ. Take your pick.
Funchal. Praca do Municipio
I went instead to the charming Frederico de Freitas Museum; the former abode of a prominent lawyer. Located in beautiful grounds offering glorious views over Funchal Bay, the museum is immaculately kept and sports a somewhat random collection of mosaics; a lot of them being brought over from Seville, which explains the Moorish patterns that visitors will find all over the house. Arab tribes never made it to Madeira. But their artefacts most certainly did.
Funchal. Praca do Municipio
There is also the low-key art collection built up by brothers Henrique and Francisco Franco who were devoted fans of the impressionist school. Very pleasant and better still, free. Even more fabulous is the Museum de Fotografia da Madeira, located in an impressive town house containing authentic technical equipment of yesteryear, but also shedloads of stills from locals who, all dressed up in their Sunday best, had their pictures taken for eternity. The undoubted highlight though is a film from 1936 which intended to promote the island as a tourist marvel.
Funchal. Igressa de Nossa Senhora do Monte
​I also visited the aptly named neighbourhood Monte, by boarding the much-advertised cable car, which majestically glides above a steep ravine and drops you off at an elevation of 600 m just below the gloriously positioned church Igressa de Nossa Senhora do Monte. A lot of visitors head straight to the Botanical Gardens of Madeira (signposted from the cable car station), expecting a lush and vibrant display that would fit an island that is also referred to as the floating garden of Europe. Yet, I found my visit to be an intensely underwhelming experience. Plant lovers might be better served at the privately run garden at Monte Palace just below the church (14 EUR entry fee). And should you be afraid of heights (or want to save on the steep 22 EUR roundtrip ticket), you can also take buses 21 or 22 from Funchal’s Central Bus Station for a fraction of the cost. Walking back into town should take about 45 minutes down a very steep hill.
Funchal. Botanical Gardens
Places to visit: Porta da Cruz
Locals refer to this compact settlement as the capital of the north. The village is wedged between dramatic cliffs rising up to 500 m above sea level and has a sleepy, chilled atmosphere with a surf school on a pounding pebble beach. For the less adventurous type there is also an attractive sea-water swimming pool, while you can also visit the island’s last rum distillery and sample a selection of ‘Ponchas’, Madeira’s favourite tipple. Bus #53 (from Funchal’s central bus station) takes you there in under 2 hours.
Porta da Cruz
Places to visit: Faja dos Padres
A little difficult to get to. You can just take a taxi to the cable car station (which should set you back from 80 EUR return), or hop on bus #7 (this one leaves from a bus stop called Rodoeste located next to a red kiosk on Avenida do Mar) all the way east along the coast to the lookout at Cabo Girao (please don’t visit; it is a rip off at 3 EUR). From there, it’s a ten minute taxi ride to the cable car station and another 12 EUR (return) for the cable car down to the Faja (fajas are slivers of land which the Atlantic has carved out from the towering cliffs above). There is even an excellent restaurant which is part of a larger complex that includes a farm (with bananas and mangoes), as well as a small hotel. And the setting of the restaurant is stupendous. Right above a pebble beach and at the foot of steeply rising, almost vertical cliffs. Treat it as a day excursion and bring your swim gear. There is a handy jetty.
Faja dos Padres
Places to Swim
If you prefer your beaches to be wide and sandy you have entered the wrong topography. Most of Madeira’s coastline is marked by rocky, and often very steep cliffs, and should you find a shallow bay, the beaches are often of the pebble variety. No wonder the tourist complexes just west of Funchal have reverted to building swimming pools.
Porto Moniz
But don’t despair. Several municipalities have constructed often fabulous rock pools that are fed by the crashing Atlantic surf, most notably in the north-western resort of Porto Moniz, whose swimming pool is one of the island’s most popular tourist attractions, and allows for a communal bathing experience that on a sunny day attracts thousands of visitors. Acclaimed by a CNN documentary as one of the world’s top rock pools probably helped in pulling in the punters who provide a nice revenue stream for the community by being charged 5 EUR to access the site and significantly more to park their vehicles. Nature as a commodity, and it felt as if I was entering Euro Disney. I took a quick dip and made my hasty excuses.
Seixal
Nearly as crowded is Madeira’s only sandy beach at Seixal; no wonder given the dramatic setting. Head there early in the morning or late afternoon, when the day excursion tour operators (who seem to dominate the compact parking lots) have returned their customers back to their resort accommodation.
Ribeira Brava
Also on the north coast, just east of the village of Sao Vicente lies the Hotel Calamara. It has its own swimming pool (which is reserved for hotel guests, although nobody seemed to bother when I took a swim), but below the complex and accessible by a public foot path just to the left of the hotel is a wonderful swimming pool that depending on the tide is fed by often tumultuous waves. No entry fee, no parking charges. And if you continue even further east on the north coast for another 15 minutes, the hamlet of Ponta Delgada also has an underused municipal pool, as does Porta da Cruz (see above; Places to visit).
Porto Camara de Lobos
But as mentioned above, there is one major downside to swimming on the north coast: the weather. While on the southern fringes of the island you can bask in glorious sunshine, the northern part is often covered in clouds and shrouded in mist. A perfect summer day in Scotland you might add … Which is why on cloudy days, you might want to head to the south coast and the sweet resort town of Ribeira Brava, which has an excellent, though man-made beach. You could also try Ponta do Sol with an inviting promenade and pretty narrow lanes crawling up a steep valley. And the beach is flanked by two massive cliffs, which gives the town a rather dramatic appearance. Camara de Lobos has an impossibly beautiful setting alongside a crescent-shaped bay that is flanked by steeply ascending hills, while the biggest man-made beach (but also the largest local crowds) can be found at Calheta. All of these four places are linked by excellent motorways with tunnels galore.
Ponta do Sol
But you might want to head further, to the far western end of the island in order to check out Paul do Mar, a low key resort with just a little touch of an alternative vibe, demonstrated by the odd vegan bakery or restaurant. No high-rise developments here, just a little harbour mole used as a swimming spot. It feels as remote as the Madeiran coastline gets.
Paul do Mar
Places to Eat
Mad Cuba, Rua do Cadeira Vehla, Funchal. A backstreet joint with outside tables just outside the confines of the Old Town; laid-back vibe and affordable; with generous portions.
O Leque, Praca do Municipio, Funchal. Café and lunch stop on a beautiful square in the Old Town; perfect to watch the world go by.
Baia do Bago, Porta da Cruz. Fabulous fish, traditional dishes and a marvellous setting right on the oceanfront.
Bar Praia da Laje. On a wild and rugged headland just to the west of the northern coastal resort of Seixal; a wood-fired barbecue grills fish to perfection. And the crashing Atlantic provides an atmospheric soundscape.
Cabo Aerero Café, Sao Pedro, Sao Jorge. This one is for the meat lovers. Yes, vegetarian options are also served, but patrons come here for the beef skewers, grilled over a wood fire. And the view from the top of a cliff down to the wild north coast is not bad either.
North coast with a view towards Seixal
